Recognition

ZAK'S PLACE
CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN
112 South Washington Street, Hinsdale;
630-323-9257

Not edgy but expertly executed, chef Marc Stein's food can't help but attract followers in the western suburbs. Wood paneling, mirrors bordered by burgundy curtains, and comfortable banquettes provide the right setting for good crab cakes with spicy cayenne aïoli or a dandy selection of pâtés—recently, duck, venison, pork, and pheasant. You want something light? Pan-roasted scallops with a vanilla, Key lime, and coconut sauce. Hearty? A Kansas City bone-in strip with green peppercorn and Armagnac sauce. And a moist, rich bread pudding with burnt caramel ice cream will prompt you to raise your wineglass to Zak, whoever he is.

SHOWSTOPPER Free-range chicken stuffed with prosciutto, roasted peppers, spinach, and goat cheese served with garlic mashed potatoes and broccolini

OTHER FAVORITES Steamed mussels with white wine and melted leeks; horseradish-crusted pan-roasted salmon with grainy mustard sauce; caramel mousse; grilled romaine ignited with blistering smoked chipotle ranch dressing and pico de gallo

NICE TOUCH Yamandu Perez, the GM/partner, was once sommelier at Gabriel's, and here his intelligent 300-plus bottle selection contains unusual gems like a 2005 Napa Lang & Reed cabernet franc ($50).

OK, WE'LL TELL YOU Zak is Perez's departed dog.

—D. R. W.

February 2008 /  Dining Tidbits
 

Dining Tidbits

NEW
Zak's Place
Informal but not quite casual, upscale without being exorbitant, Zak's isn't about to startle anyone with its wood-paneled walls and protein-focused menu. What is surprising is just how capable the kitchen is. It's not just the 22-ounce bone-in rib eye that's perfectly cooked; it's the grilled asparagus, too, and the crispy steak fries—called Zak's potatoes. And while he treads familiar ground, chef Marc Stein isn't a total slave to tradition. Instead of yet another caesar salad, he offers smoky grilled romaine with chipotle ranch dressing and pico de gallo. To round out Zak's appeal, Yamandu Perez, a co-owner and former sommelier for Gabe Viti, has assembled a solid, New World–heavy wine list. 112 S. Washington St., Hinsdale; 630-323-9257.
–Nathaniel Zimmer


Photography: Kendall Karmanian

Dinning Guide - Chicagomag.com Review

Spring 2009

"This handsome west suburban haven hums right along as GM/sommelier Yamandu Perez takes the toque. The crab cakes with cayenne aïoli still tingle appealingly, and the seared foie gras with caramelized bananas and mango sauce hits the right luxurious notes. Sautéed pork loin with zesty orange beurre blanc cuts with a fork, and Perez’s love of spice puts a glow on the free-range jerk chicken with black beans and rice. Cioppino would have worked if the shrimp hadn’t gone tough. When the server suggests the banana and chocolate tart with rum sauce and vanilla ice cream, say yes. Serious 300-bottle wine list."


Recognition








Interested in working at Zaks? Email your resume to jobs@zaksplace.com.